The Spill alarm resets differently depending on your transmitter type, and only while the system stays powered on:

• TD80 transmitters: unload the compartment to at least 2" below the High-High alarm level while the system stays powered on. If the system is turned off during unloading, the alarm will not reset.
• TD100 transmitters: unload the compartment to at least 1" below the Spill alarm level while the system stays powered on. Powering off mid-unload will not reset the alarm either.

A Spill alarm gets "stuck" when the compartment is loaded to or above the Spill alarm level, or when it is loaded near the High-High level and sloshing while driving or loading triggers the alarm without the liquid level ever dropping back below the reset threshold.

When your liquid level is at or above the programmed Spill alarm level, the FINCH II display toggles between "SPILL" and the last known volume. The only way to clear it is to unload product at least 1" below the Spill alarm level while the system is powered ON.

Common causes include loading/unloading methods, system installation or testing, environmental conditions, and product malfunction. If the steps below do not reset the alarm, the transmitter or probe may be defective — a service center visit is recommended.

• After installation or a repair: enter Offset Calibration mode without changing any display settings, then power the system off and back on. This should reset the alarm.
• If the transmitter is loose on the probe: remove it, clean out any water or contamination between transmitter and probe, reinstall and hand-tighten, then finish tightening with a wrench. Once secure, enter Offset Calibration mode again and power cycle the system.

If the Spill alarm is active even though the tank is empty, it is usually related to the installation itself:

1. Enter Offset Calibration mode without changing any display settings, then power the system off and back on. If the alarm is still active, continue to the next step.
2. Check for clearance around the probe. Any metal object within 2" of the probe rod — tank wall, top, riser, baffles, pipes, or brackets — can keep the Spill alarm active. Move or modify anything within that 2" clearance, inside the riser and inside the tank, and confirm the transmitter is tightened on the probe. Re-enter Offset Calibration mode if anything was moved or adjusted.

Manual calibration corrects small variances between your FINCH display and the metered volume — update your strapping table instead if the difference is significant. Your tank needs at least 6 inches of liquid in the compartment being calibrated.

1. Power on your TD System and select the compartment to calibrate (shown to the left of the red 5-digit display).
2. Enter calibration mode using either method:
   • Option 1: press and hold COMP SELECT, HORN BYPASS, ACK, and DIM SLEEP together until CAL flashes, then release.
   • Option 2: power off the system, hold either arrow button, power the system back on, and release the arrow button once CAL flashes.
3. Use the up/down arrow buttons to match the display to the actual liquid volume in the tank.
4. Once the volume is correct, power the system off and back on. This updates the display only — it does not update the strapping table.

If a customer has tampered with the relay mappings and the relays are not working, you can reset them to factory default using a front-panel button sequence on the FINCH II:

HORN BYPASS → UP ARROW → UP ARROW → COMP SELECT → HORN BYPASS

The buttons must be pressed in that exact order, consecutively. This feature requires firmware version 1.03.00 or higher.

Fluctuating or illogical volume readings usually point to one of these:

• Probe issue: check for physical damage, corrosion, or product buildup. Repair or replace a bent probe, tighten or replace a loose/missing shorting block, and clean buildup with a suitable solvent (like brake cleaner). On Dual Rod Probes, check the gap between rods at the height where erratic readings start.
• Transmitter-to-probe connection: check for contamination such as water, anti-seize, or oil between the probe and transmitter, and clean all surfaces before reattaching.
• Power supply: check the power supply to the FINCH.

If none of these resolve it, the transmitter likely has an internal fault and needs repair or replacement.

The FINCH II-6W is pre-programmed for a 6-compartment setup. If it shows five dashed lines and is stuck on compartment 6 even though your system has fewer compartments, it needs to be reprogrammed to match your actual configuration (for example, 4 compartments instead of 6).

1. Get the FINCH programming kit and wire it to the FINCH II-6W and your computer per the wiring diagram.
2. Open SensorLink (download it from titanlogix.com/support/downloads if needed).
3. Select the FINCH II icon, choose your COM port, set the model to FINCH II-6W, and specify the correct number of compartments (enable RCM if applicable).
4. Click Program to apply the changes.

Error code E0802 indicates low voltage to the display. Common signs include a dark 3V3 power LED, a blinking RCM power indicator, a dark display, or dim vehicle lights.

Using a digital multimeter, measure the voltage at the FINCH II Display’s PWR IN and GND IN terminals — it should read at least 9VDC and be stable. Low or unstable voltage there points to vehicle wiring; a normal reading there but a dark display points to an internal FINCH II fault.

• Check for worn or cut wires, corroded terminals, and loose connections — including junction boxes, fuses, Hobbs switches, and J-560 sockets between truck and trailer.
• Confirm ground connections are made to bare, unpainted, corrosion-free metal.
• Measure truck battery voltage (about 14.5VDC with the engine running) — a big gap between that and the FINCH II reading points to a serious vehicle wiring issue.
• A basic test light can reveal power fluctuations a multimeter may miss, since a DMM is not great at catching brief instability.

Reference voltages: 12–13VDC at PWR IN with the engine off, 13–14VDC running; minimum 9VDC (stable) into the display; minimum 8VDC (stable) to the transmitter and RCM.

Start by confirming all alarms are inactive, then press the Horn Relay Test button on the circuit board. If the horn sounds, you likely have an intermittent wiring issue. If it stays silent:

1. Check the horn fuse — replace it if blown, then keep inspecting the wiring.
2. Check the horn wiring for loose or corroded connections or a cut wire (the horn is polarity-sensitive, so confirm + and − are correct).
3. If the wiring looks fine, use a test light or voltmeter to check for power/ground at each point in the circuit in order: Relay PWR terminal, Relay 4 COM, Relay 4 NO (with the test button pressed), the horn + terminal, the horn − terminal (ground), and the Relay GND terminal.

If the earlier points in that chain fail, the FINCH II display itself is likely defective; if only the horn terminal fails, the horn needs replacing. For a new installation that has never worked, retrace the install step by step — check for a self-grounding horn that is not bolted to bare metal, an incorrectly configured relay, or a blown fuse from miswiring.

Before troubleshooting the pump itself, rule out anything else affecting the system: active error codes, an active High-High or Spill alarm, the display stuck in Sleep Mode, a dark/garbled display, or low battery voltage. Resolve any of those first.

Once the system is otherwise healthy, work from the FINCH II display out to the pump control solenoid using a multimeter:

1. Confirm the solenoid wiring is securely connected to RELAY2 NO and RELAY GND, and inspect the wiring for damage.
2. Measure RELAY PWR voltage — it should be normal battery voltage (~12VDC). No voltage means check the Relay Power fuse.
3. Measure voltage at the PUMP/AUX RELAY2 COM terminal (should also be ~12VDC) — no voltage means check the Pump fuse.
4. Measure voltage at the RELAY2 NO terminal. If it is present, the wiring beyond the display to the solenoid is the next place to check. If it is absent, the FINCH II display is likely defective.
5. As a final test, press the Pump Relay Test button repeatedly while measuring RELAY2 NO — voltage should drop to 0VDC when pressed and return to ~12VDC when released. If it does not, the display is defective.

Hydraulic pump control uses a solenoid-controlled Normally Open valve, wired to the FINCH II’s Pump/Aux Relay 2, installed between the hydraulic pressure line and the bypass line to the reservoir (with a "T" fitting on each line).

The valve stays powered, and the pump runs, as long as the system is in a good state. Reaching the High-High (HH) alarm shuts the pump off, but it can be reactivated to clear the hoses.

The DIM SLEEP button cycles the display through three brightness levels, then puts it into Sleep Mode on the 4th press — blanking the display and disabling alarms to save power (all acknowledgeable alarms must be cleared first).

If your display keeps returning to Sleep Mode on its own, typically after about 30 seconds, check the jumper wire on the FINCH II circuit board between DISPLAY EN and GND. A missing or loose connection there will cause this behavior.

This usually happens when a newer TD100 transmitter is paired with older FINCH II firmware. As of FINCH II firmware v2.8.5, the circuit board’s Rotary Switches were disabled — decimal point and volume unit settings are instead received from the TD100 based on the strapping table. An older FINCH II firmware version conflicting with newer TD100 firmware causes the FFFFF display.

• Option 1: update the FINCH II firmware to the latest version (requires programming cables, unless it is a FINCH II-W).
• Option 2 (no programming cables): open the FINCH circuit board and set all four Rotary Switches — FINCH UNITS, MULTIPLIER, TD80 UNITS, and DECIMAL — to 0, then reboot the system.

Five dashed lines mean a communication failure between the transmitter and the FINCH II — usually a wiring problem, or a failed transmitter or display.

1. Power on the system and open the FINCH II enclosure to access the circuit board.
2. Check the wiring at the COMP #1 & #2 terminals: black = PWR, white = GND, red = SV. All wires should be secure, untangled, and free of corrosion or fraying.
3. Check the same wiring at the transmitter itself.
4. If more than one compartment is connected and only one shows dashed lines, swap the Comp #1 & #2 connectors. If the fault follows the wiring, the problem is the wiring harness or transmitter; if it stays on the original compartment, the FINCH circuit board needs to be replaced.

Check the voltage inside the display — it should read above 8VDC — and inspect for loose, corroded, or disconnected power or ground wiring. If both of those check out, the display itself is likely faulty.